This is a pattern that we would advise making a toile first, firstly to adjust the fit if needed but secondly to familiarise with the pattern instructions. We have not used a traditional run and fell jeans seam, we have chosen instead to topstitch the seam, which is easier to achieve on a domestic machine. We have found that a heavy duty thread rather than a topstitch thread gives a more authentic look to the topstitching and is easier to use. You may find that you get a better stitch using a matching standard ‘sew all’ thread in the bobbin.
This is a multi-size paper pattern in an envelope, including sizes 6 – 18. 1.5cm seam allowance is included in the pattern unless otherwise stated. Skill level: Experienced but achievable if you take it step by step!
We recommend using 8 – 12.5oz non stretch denim (up to 14oz with a heavy duty machine.)
You will also need:
- Matching thread
- 17.5cm/7″ metal jeans zip
- 1 x button approx 18mm
- Jeans needle
- Large eye sewing needle
- Plain cotton fabric for pocket bags
- Heavy duty contrast thread/top stitching thread
- Matching standard contrast thread (to use in bobbin)
A note about pre washing your denim:
We recommend pre washing your denim before sewing. Putting a large piece of medium-heavy weight denim into the washing machine can sometimes lead to white creases in the denim, this is because it is a stiff fabric so it doesn’t have room to move around. We recommend doing the following to help this not to happen:
- Wash your denim on its own for the first wash. You don’t need to use detergent if you don’t want to.
- Wet the fabric first before putting it into the drum.
- If you can break up your denim fabric into half this will help. Or if you have your pattern already you may be able to break it into smaller parts by looking at the lay plan – leave some wiggle room!
- For the first wash use a delicate 30 degree cycle with a low spin.
- If any white creases develop ironing whilst still damp will help.
- Do not tumble dry.
When you have made the jeans we would recommend washing them inside out.